Image - Name Excerpts from Women and the Decorative Arts Excerpts from Women and the Decorative Arts Image - Name Excerpts from Women and the Decorative Arts Document <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><?xml-model href="http://www.tei-c.org/release/xml/tei/custom/schema/relaxng/tei_all.rng" type="application/xml" schematypens="http://relaxng.org/ns/structure/1.0"?><?xml-stylesheet type="text/css" href="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/heresies/main/CSS/heresies_cwrc.css"?><TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0" xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#"> <teiHeader> <fileDesc> <titleStmt> <title>[ESSAY TITLE]</title> <author>[ESSAY AUTHOR]</author> <respStmt> <persName>Haley Beardsley</persName> <resp>Editor (2021- Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Erica Delsandro</persName> <resp>Investigator, editor</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Mia DeRoco</persName> <resp>Editor (2023-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Margaret Hunter</persName> <resp>Editor (2021-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Diane Jakacki</persName> <resp>Invesigator, encoder</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Sophie McQuaide</persName> <resp>Editor (2021-2023)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Olivia Martin</persName> <resp>Editor, encoder (2021)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Zoha Nadeer</persName> <resp>Editor (2022-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Bri Perea</persName> <resp>Editor (2022-23)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Carrie Pirmann</persName> <resp>HTR editor, encoder (2023-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Ricky Rodriguez</persName> <resp>Editor (2022-2023)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Roger Rothman</persName> <resp>Investigator, editor</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Kaitlyn Segreti</persName> <resp>Editor (2021-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Maggie Smith</persName> <resp>Editor (2021-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Maya Wadhwa</persName> <resp>Editor (2021-2023)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Lucy Wadswoth</persName> <resp>Editor (2022-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Anna Marie Wingard</persName> <resp>Editor (2023-Present)</resp> </respStmt> <funder>Bucknell University Humanities Center</funder> <funder>Bucknell University Office of Undergraduate Research</funder> <funder>The Mellon Foundation</funder> <funder>National Endowment for the Humanities</funder> </titleStmt> <publicationStmt> <distributor> <name>Bucknell University</name> <address> <street>One Dent Drive</street> <settlement>Lewisburg</settlement> <region>Pennsylvania</region> <postCode>17837</postCode> </address> </distributor> <availability> <licence>Bucknell Heresies Project: Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International (CC BY-NC 4.0)</licence> <licence>Heresies journal: © Heresies Collective</licence> </availability> </publicationStmt> <sourceDesc> <biblStruct> <analytic> <title>[ISSUE TITLE]</title> </analytic> <monogr> <imprint> <publisher>HERESIES: A Feminist Publication on Art and Politics</publisher> <pubPlace> <address> <name>Heresies</name> <postBox>P.O. 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"@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" }, "oa:hasSelector": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163251437#Selector", "@type": "oa:XPathSelector", "rdf:value": "TEI/text/body/div/p[2]/note" } }, "oa:hasBody": { "@type": "cwrc:NoteScholarly", "dc:format": "text/plain", "rdf:value": "Q. 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The school was headed by Mlle. Nelly Marandon\n\t\t\t\t\t\tde Montyel after 1860. I am grateful to Professor Albert Boime for much of\n\t\t\t\t\t\tthis information." }, "as:generator": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:url": "https://leaf-writer.lincsproject.ca/", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" } }]]> </rdf:Description> <rdf:Description rdf:datatype="http://www.w3.org/TR/json-ld/"> <![CDATA[{ "@context": { "dcterms:created": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": "dcterms:created" }, "dcterms:issued": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": "dcterms:issued" }, "oa:motivatedBy": { "@type": "oa:Motivation" }, "@language": "en", "rdf": "http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#", "rdfs": "http://www.w3.org/2000/01/rdf-schema#", "as": "http://www.w3.org/ns/activitystreams#", "cwrc": "http://sparql.cwrc.ca/ontologies/cwrc#", "dc": "http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/", "dcterms": "http://purl.org/dc/terms/", "foaf": "http://xmlns.com/foaf/0.1/", "geo": "http://www.geonames.org/ontology#", "oa": "http://www.w3.org/ns/oa#", "schema": "http://schema.org/", "xsd": "http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#", "fabio": "https://purl.org/spar/fabio#", "bf": "http://www.openlinksw.com/schemas/bif#", "cito": "https://sparontologies.github.io/cito/current/cito.html#", "org": "http://www.w3.org/ns/org#" }, "id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163333625", "type": "oa:Annotation", "dcterms:created": "2024-04-04T20:33:33.625Z", "dcterms:modified": "2024-04-04T20:33:33.625Z", "dcterms:creator": { "@id": "9", "@type": [ "cwrc:NaturalPerson", "schema:Person" ], "cwrc:hasName": "Diane Jakacki" }, "oa:motivatedBy": "oa:describing", "oa:hasTarget": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163333625#Target", "@type": "oa:SpecificResource", "oa:hasSource": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml", "@type": "dctypes:Text", "dc:format": "text/xml" }, "oa:renderedVia": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" }, "oa:hasSelector": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163333625#Selector", "@type": "oa:XPathSelector", "rdf:value": "TEI/text/body/div/p[5]/note" } }, "oa:hasBody": { "@type": "cwrc:NoteScholarly", "dc:format": "text/plain", "rdf:value": "National Collection of Fine Arts, Marguerite Zorach: The Early Years, 1908-1920, 1973, p. 50. The artist was joined briefly in her\n\t\t\t\t\t\ttapestry work by her husband, William Zorach." }, "as:generator": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:url": "https://leaf-writer.lincsproject.ca/", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" } }]]> </rdf:Description> <rdf:Description rdf:datatype="http://www.w3.org/TR/json-ld/"> <![CDATA[{ "@context": { "dcterms:created": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": "dcterms:created" }, "dcterms:issued": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": "dcterms:issued" }, "oa:motivatedBy": { "@type": "oa:Motivation" }, "@language": "en", "rdf": "http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#", "rdfs": "http://www.w3.org/2000/01/rdf-schema#", "as": "http://www.w3.org/ns/activitystreams#", "cwrc": "http://sparql.cwrc.ca/ontologies/cwrc#", "dc": "http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/", "dcterms": "http://purl.org/dc/terms/", "foaf": "http://xmlns.com/foaf/0.1/", "geo": "http://www.geonames.org/ontology#", "oa": "http://www.w3.org/ns/oa#", "schema": "http://schema.org/", "xsd": "http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#", "fabio": "https://purl.org/spar/fabio#", "bf": "http://www.openlinksw.com/schemas/bif#", "cito": "https://sparontologies.github.io/cito/current/cito.html#", "org": "http://www.w3.org/ns/org#" }, "id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163341970", "type": "oa:Annotation", "dcterms:created": "2024-04-04T20:33:41.970Z", "dcterms:modified": "2024-04-04T20:33:41.970Z", "dcterms:creator": { "@id": "9", "@type": [ "cwrc:NaturalPerson", "schema:Person" ], "cwrc:hasName": "Diane Jakacki" }, "oa:motivatedBy": "oa:describing", "oa:hasTarget": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163341970#Target", "@type": "oa:SpecificResource", "oa:hasSource": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml", "@type": "dctypes:Text", "dc:format": "text/xml" }, "oa:renderedVia": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" }, "oa:hasSelector": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163341970#Selector", "@type": "oa:XPathSelector", "rdf:value": "TEI/text/body/div/p[5]/note[2]" } }, "oa:hasBody": { "@type": "cwrc:NoteScholarly", "dc:format": "text/plain", "rdf:value": "Ibid., p. 57." }, "as:generator": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:url": "https://leaf-writer.lincsproject.ca/", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" } }]]> </rdf:Description> <rdf:Description rdf:datatype="http://www.w3.org/TR/json-ld/"> <![CDATA[{ "@context": { "dcterms:created": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": 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"oa:hasBody": { "@type": "cwrc:NoteScholarly", "dc:format": "text/plain", "rdf:value": "See Taeuber-Arp bibliography in Women Artists." }, "as:generator": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:url": "https://leaf-writer.lincsproject.ca/", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" } }]]> </rdf:Description> <rdf:Description rdf:datatype="http://www.w3.org/TR/json-ld/"> <![CDATA[{ "@context": { "dcterms:created": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": "dcterms:created" }, "dcterms:issued": { "@type": "xsd:dateTime", "@id": "dcterms:issued" }, "oa:motivatedBy": { "@type": "oa:Motivation" }, "@language": "en", "rdf": "http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#", "rdfs": "http://www.w3.org/2000/01/rdf-schema#", "as": "http://www.w3.org/ns/activitystreams#", "cwrc": "http://sparql.cwrc.ca/ontologies/cwrc#", "dc": "http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/", "dcterms": "http://purl.org/dc/terms/", "foaf": "http://xmlns.com/foaf/0.1/", "geo": "http://www.geonames.org/ontology#", "oa": "http://www.w3.org/ns/oa#", "schema": "http://schema.org/", "xsd": "http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#", "fabio": "https://purl.org/spar/fabio#", "bf": "http://www.openlinksw.com/schemas/bif#", "cito": "https://sparontologies.github.io/cito/current/cito.html#", "org": "http://www.w3.org/ns/org#" }, "id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163355531", "type": "oa:Annotation", "dcterms:created": "2024-04-04T20:33:55.531Z", "dcterms:modified": "2024-04-04T20:33:55.531Z", "dcterms:creator": { "@id": "9", "@type": [ "cwrc:NaturalPerson", "schema:Person" ], "cwrc:hasName": "Diane Jakacki" }, "oa:motivatedBy": "oa:describing", "oa:hasTarget": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163355531#Target", "@type": "oa:SpecificResource", "oa:hasSource": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml", "@type": "dctypes:Text", "dc:format": "text/xml" }, "oa:renderedVia": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" }, "oa:hasSelector": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20240404163355531#Selector", "@type": "oa:XPathSelector", "rdf:value": "TEI/text/body/div/p[5]/note[5]" } }, "oa:hasBody": { "@type": "cwrc:NoteScholarly", "dc:format": "text/plain", "rdf:value": "See Bell bibliography in Women Artists." }, "as:generator": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:url": "https://leaf-writer.lincsproject.ca/", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" } }]]> </rdf:Description> <rdf:Description rdf:datatype="http://www.w3.org/TR/json-ld/"> <![CDATA[{ "@context": { "dcterms:created": { 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"https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20250214140417848#Target", "@type": "oa:SpecificResource", "oa:hasSource": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml", "@type": "dctypes:Text", "dc:format": "text/xml" }, "oa:renderedVia": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" }, "oa:hasSelector": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu/sites/default/files/2025-02/nochlin_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0_0.xml?note_annotation_20250214140417848#Selector", "@type": "oa:XPathSelector", "rdf:value": "TEI/text/body/div/p[5]/note[3]" } }, "oa:hasBody": { "@type": "cwrc:NoteScholarly", "dc:format": "text/plain", "rdf:value": "A.A. Cohen, Sonia Delaunay, New York, 1975, p. 77." }, "as:generator": { "@id": "https://leaf.bucknell.edu", "@type": "as:Application", "rdfs:label": "LEAF-Writer", "schema:url": "https://leaf-writer.lincsproject.ca/", "schema:softwareVersion": "3.9.0" } }]]> </rdf:Description> </rdf:RDF></xenoData></teiHeader> <text> <body> <div> <pb facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/heresies/main/issue04/images/Heresies_04_046.jpg" n="46" xml:id="img_0046"/> <head><title>Excerpts from Women and the Decorative Arts</title></head> <byline><persName key="Linda Nochlin" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q434478">Linda Nochlin</persName></byline> <p> The feminine presence in the field of the decorative arts, more specifically, those related to textiles—weaving, embroidery, stitchery—is a time-honored one.<note type="scholarNote">See <title key="Women Artists: 1550-1950" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q24975636" level="m">Women Artists</title>, pp. 15-17.</note> See Women Artists, pp. 15-17. Indeed, women have continued to make significant contributions in this area through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. For example, exhibits—rather conventional ones, to be sure—of lace, embroidery, tapestry and needle-work were prominent among the works illustrated in the official publication of Art and Handicraft in the Woman's Building of the World's <orgName key="World's Columbian Exposition" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q285406">Columbian Exposition</orgName> in Chicago in 1893. Later, the leading weavers and tapestry makers at the <orgName key="Bauhaus" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q124354">Bauhaus</orgName>—<persName key="Anni Albers" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q86078">Anni Albers</persName>, <persName key="Hollós-Consemüller, Ruth" ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q60559477">Ruth Consemüller</persName>, <persName key="Gunta Stölzl" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q73085">Gunta Stölzl</persName>, <persName key="Otti Berger" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q2037742">Otti Berger</persName>, <persName key="Benita Koch-Otte" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q817333">Benita Koch-Otte</persName>—were women.<note type="scholarNote">Although women may have traditionally been involved in handweaving and art weaving, this is by no means true as far as industrial or mass-production of cloth is concerned.</note> Nevertheless, this traditional relation, or perhaps relegation, of women to the decorative arts was complicated by a variety of social and economic as well as ideological factors at the turn of this century. One complicating factor was the ambiguous status and prestige accorded to the decorative arts themselves, especially in relation to the so-called high arts of painting and sculpture. Another was the complex relationship of the decorative arts to the evolution of abstract painting and the subsequent development of an abstruse mystique to differentiate the latter from the former. Still another factor was the social, political and moral implications associated with the promotion of the handicrafts and with education in design, especially in Great Britain during the latter part of the nineteenth century.</p> <p>Have women simply been shunted off into the so-called minor or decorative arts because these were considered less demanding and were certainly less prestigious? It is undeniable that English women were admitted to the Schools of Design, both the Branch Schools and their own Female School in London, long before they were admitted, in any significant numbers, to the teaching facilities of the <orgName key="Royal Academy of Arts" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q270920">Royal Academy</orgName>. The ranks of these schools were swelled not merely by the working-class girls for whom this sort of training, aimed primarily at industrial design, was originally intended, but by vast crowds of impoverished young ladies who were in desperate straits trying to find employment in the arts, primarily as governesses. <note type="scholarNote">Q. Bell, <title>The Schools of Design</title>, London, 1963, pp. 135-137.</note> Even earlier, in France, <persName>Mme. Frere de Montyon</persName>, a student of <persName key="Jean-Bernard Restout" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q2119254" cert="low">Restout</persName>'s, had founded the <orgName key="École nationale supérieure des arts décoratifs" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q1135990">Ecole Gratuite de Dessin pour les Jeunes Personnes</orgName>, a school established in 1805 to help penniless young women become self-supporting, an enterprise perhaps intended as much to aid public morals as to encourage artistic ability. The Ecole Gratuite de Dessin was brought under government jurisdiction in 1810. <note type="scholarNote"><persName key="Raymond Bonheur" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q44720949">Rosa Bonheur's father</persName> took over the directorship in 1848, and his <persName key="Rosa Bonheur" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q241732" cert="high" type="real">daughter</persName>, the following year. The school was headed by Mlle. <persName key="Nelly Marandon de Montyel" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q110817252">Nelly Marandon de Montyel</persName> after 1860. I am grateful to Professor Albert Boime for much of this information.</note></p> <p>The democratizing effort to extend knowledge of the applied arts to the lower classes—and to women—was carried further in subsequent attempts to break down completely the barriers between high art and the decorative arts. The attempt reached a climax in Great Britain during the late nineteenth century with the program of social transformation proposed by <persName key="John Ruskin" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q179126">John Ruskin</persName> and, especially, by <persName key="William Morris" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q182589">William Morris</persName>. Interestingly enough, women seem to have served little more than a purely inspirational function for Morris and his followers, although both <persName key="Jane Morris" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q269360">Janey</persName> and <persName key="May Morris" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q449758">May Morris</persName> produced embroidery for the cause of arts and crafts. Women in late nineteenth-century England certainly made contributions to porcelain painting textiles, embroidery, and, often anonymously, to patchwork and other forms of stitchery, and of course <persName key="Kate Greenaway" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q204936">Kate Greenaway</persName> was active as an illustrator and tile-designer, influencing <persName key="Paul Gauguin" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q37693">Gauguin</persName> and many other painters. Nevertheless, women as a group were not prominent in the English Arts and Crafts Movement. In Scotland, however two unusually gifted and productive sisters, <persName key="Frances MacDonald" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q458827">Frances Macdonald</persName> (1874-1921) and <persName key="Margaret MacDonald" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q508344">Margaret Macdonald</persName> (1865-1933) made major contributions in design. Margaret later married the innovative architect and designer <persName key="Charles Rennie Mackintosh" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q220703">Charles Rennie Mackintosh</persName>, and as members of his circle both sisters created imaginative curvilinear designs for architectural ornaments, metalwork, embroideries and stained glass, as well as watercolors that often hover on the brink of abstraction.</p> <p> Although the effort to overthrow the hegemony of "high art" by merging it with the "minor" arts, an effort that has characterized one current of vanguard ideology from <title key="synthetism" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q847847">Synthetism</title> to <title key="constructivism" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q207103">Constructivism</title>, is by no means a feminine invention, the extent to which the decorative arts, especially those involving textiles, have played a role in the careers of advanced women artists is striking. Yet even though their achievements in these realms are often brilliant, the fact that painters like <persName key="Natalia Goncharova" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q232391">Nataliia Goncharova</persName>, <persName key="Aleksandra Ekster" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q242121">Alexandra Exter</persName>, <persName key="Lyubov' Popova" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q259594">Liubov Popova</persName> and <persName key="Varvara Stepanova" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q374948">Varvara Stepanova</persName>, <persName key="Sophie Taeuber-Arp" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q254395">Sophie Taeuber-Arp</persName> and <persName key="Vanessa Bell" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q255294">Vanessa Bell</persName>, <persName key="Marguerite Zorach" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q6760826">Marguerite Zorach</persName> and <persName key="Sonia Delaunay" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q232972">Sonia Delaunay</persName> were involved in textile design, weaving, tapestry making and costume design nevertheless has equivocal implications. On the one hand, for a woman artist to "return," as it were, to her traditional role in the minor arts, generally less conducive to fame and fortune than a career in painting or sculpture, can be viewed as a retrograde step. Yet from another vantage point, we can say that advanced women artists involved in the decorative arts in the early twentieth century were contributing to the most revolutionary directions—both social and aesthetic—of their times.</p> <p> <persName type="real">Marguerite Zorach</persName> may indeed have turned from painting to embroidering tapestries after the birth of her second child, when she "no longer had the hours of uninterrupted concentration that she required to work out her personal views on canvas," <note type="scholarNote">National Collection of Fine Arts, <title>Marguerite Zorach: The Early Years, 1908-1920</title>, 1973, p. 50. The artist was joined briefly in her tapestry work by her husband, <persName key="William Zorach" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q385941" cert="medium" type="real">William Zorach</persName>.</note> and <persName key="Sonia Delaunay" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q232972" cert="high" type="real">Sonia Delaunay</persName> may have moved from monumental <title key="Orphism" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q519443">Orphist</title> canvases to fabric and dress design in order to support her husband and herself after the loss of her private income following the Russian Revolution. Nevertheless it is also true that Zorach's needlework, in many ways more original and interesting than her paintings, received more exposure and critical attention than her canvases during the 1920s and '30s, <note type="scholarNote">Ibid., p. 57.</note> and that Delaunay had had considerable success in the applied arts before the loss of her income <note type="scholarNote">A.A. Cohen, <title cert="high" generatedBy="human" level="m" xml:space="default">Sonia Delaunay</title>, New York, 1975, p. 77.</note> and continued to make some of her most original contributions in this area throughout her career. Certainly the experiences of <persName key="Sophie Taeuber-Arp" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q254395">Sophie Taeuber-Arp</persName> and <persName key="Vanessa Bell" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q255294">Vanessa Bell</persName> in the decorative arts exerted a progressive influence on their "high art" creations. Taeuber-Arp, who began as a textile specialist and taught weaving and embroidery at the Arts and Crafts School in Zurich, may well have influenced her husband <persName key="Jean Arp" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q153739">Jean Arp</persName>, in the direction of greater abstraction as a result of the embroidery and weaving they did together at the time of the First World War. Indeed, it was probably precisely because of her background in the decorative arts that Taeuber-Arp was one of the first artists to think of abstraction as a natural point of departure rather than the end of a long process of evolution from representation. <note type="scholarNote">See Taeuber-Arp bibliography in <title level="m">Women Artists</title>.</note> Vanessa Bell's participation from 1913 to 1919 in <persName key="Roger Fry" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q547470">Roger Fry</persName>'s <orgName key="Omega Workshops" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q1330833">Omega Workshops</orgName>, for which she designed screens, textiles and mosaics, seems to have intensified her penchant for abstract colorism and bold surface treatment which had already been stimulated by contact with the <orgName key="fauvism" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q166593" cert="high">Fauves</orgName> and <orgName key="Cubism" ref="http://dbpedia.org/resource/Cubism">Cubists</orgName>. <note type="scholarNote">See Bell bibliography in <title cert="high" generatedBy="human" level="m" xml:space="default">Women Artists</title>.</note></p> <p>In attempting to evaluate women artists' contributions to the decorative arts, much depends on one's attitude toward the relative importance of the "high" versus the "applied" arts. If we consider painting the ultimate form of aesthetic expression, then it will be a foregone conclusion that Sonia Delaunay made a sacrifice by neglecting her monumental abstract canvases to produce fabrics and fashions, while her husband, <persName key="Robert Delaunay" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q33978">Robert Delaunay</persName>, was permitted to continue his calling as a painter and, perhaps even more important, as a theorist of abstract art. If, however, we take a less conventional view of what constitutes value in the avant-garde production of the twentieth century, we can see that women artists, by remaining faithful to their time-honored role as decorative artists, have advanced the cause of abstraction and, at the same time, spread its message beyond the walls of the studio, museum and gallery into the realm of daily life—a goal devoutly sought by artists—whether "high" or "applied," male or female—from the time of Ruskin and Morris to the Russian Revolution, the <orgName key="Bauhaus" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q124354">Bauhaus</orgName> and afterwards.</p> </div> </body> <back> <div> <p> Linda Nochlin is Professor of Art History at Vassar College.</p> </div> </back> </text> </TEI>
