Document <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><?xml-model href="http://www.tei-c.org/release/xml/tei/custom/schema/relaxng/tei_all.rng" type="application/xml" schematypens="http://relaxng.org/ns/structure/1.0"?><?xml-stylesheet type="text/css" href="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/CSS/suzette_cwrc.css"?><TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0" xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#"> <teiHeader> <fileDesc> <titleStmt> <title type="main">Suzette: a Digital Edition</title> <respStmt> <persName>John Westbrook</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Editor</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Diane Jakacki</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Project Manager</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Annie Girton</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Research Assistant and Encoder, 2018-2020</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Sarah Haber</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Research Assistant and Encoder, 2020-2022</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Rebecca Heintzelman</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Research Assistant and Encoder, 2020-Present</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Juliya Harnood</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Research Assistant and Encoder, 2021-Present</resp> </respStmt> <respStmt> <persName>Jaehoon Pyon</persName> <orgName>Bucknell University</orgName> <resp>Research Assistant and Encoder, 2023-Present</resp> </respStmt> </titleStmt> <publicationStmt> <distributor>Bucknell University</distributor> <pubPlace> <address> <addrLine>One Dent Drive</addrLine> <addrLine>Lewisburg, PA 17837</addrLine> </address> </pubPlace> <availability> <licence>Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International</licence> </availability> </publicationStmt> <sourceDesc> <biblStruct> <monogr> <title>Suzette: Livre de Lecture Courante à l’Usage des Jeunes Filles. Morale—Leçon de choses, Economie Domestique – Ménage – Cuisine – Couture</title> <author>Robert Halt</author> <textLang>French</textLang> <imprint> <date>1889</date> <distributor>Libraire Classique Paul Delaplane</distributor> <pubPlace>Paris, France</pubPlace> </imprint> </monogr> </biblStruct> </sourceDesc> </fileDesc> <xenoData><rdf:RDF xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#" xmlns:rdfs="http://www.w3.org/2000/01/rdf-schema#" xmlns:as="http://www.w3.org/ns/activitystreams#" xmlns:cwrc="http://sparql.cwrc.ca/ontologies/cwrc#" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:dcterms="http://purl.org/dc/terms/" xmlns:foaf="http://xmlns.com/foaf/0.1/" xmlns:geo="http://www.geonames.org/ontology#" xmlns:oa="http://www.w3.org/ns/oa#" xmlns:schema="http://schema.org/" xmlns:xsd="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#" xmlns:fabio="https://purl.org/spar/fabio#" xmlns:bf="http://www.openlinksw.com/schemas/bif#" xmlns:cito="https://sparontologies.github.io/cito/current/cito.html#" 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ident="en">English</language> </langUsage> </profileDesc> </teiHeader> <text> <body> <div xmlns:ns0="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0" type="chapitre" xml:lang="fr" n="ch095"> <pb type="page" n="328" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_328.jpg"/> <head>95. — La reine Isabeau. </head> <div type="récit"> <p>La preuve en était un peu plus loin dans un magnifique album d'anciennes gravures.</p> <pb type="page" n="329" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_329.jpg"/> <fw>REINE ISABEAU. 329</fw> <p>On vit là des coiffures du quatorzième et du quinzième siècle qui faisaient en extravagance*<note type="annotation">Extravagance. Action qui est contraire au bon sens, à la raison.</note> et en ridicule le vrai pendant du « pouf au sentiment », les hennins, venus, dit-on, des <placeName>Flandres</placeName>. C'étaient des édifices de toile, d'abord si larges que les élégantes ne pouvaient passer dans les embrasures de portes que de côté, comme l'image le montrait. Peu à peu, l'exagération passant de l'horizontal au vertical, les belles dames, pour entrer ou sortir, se mettaient presque à genoux.</p> <figure> <caption> Costume d'<persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau de Bavière</persName> (1371-1435). </caption> </figure> <p>On admira également la haute coiffe en pain de sucre, d'où pendait un voile d'autant plus long que la dame était plus noble. Le voile de la reine <persName ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ana="française" role="reine">Isabeau</persName>, qui importa*<note type="annotation">Importer. Introduire une chose venant d'une contrée étrangère.</note> cette mode de <placeName key="Duchy of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q47261">Bavière</placeName>, traînait à terre.</p> <p>Cette femme du malheureux <persName ana="française" key="Charles VI of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q160349" role="roi">Charles VI</persName> était une fameuse coquette. Ni la touchante maladie de son mari, ni les horreurs de la guerre étrangère, ni les grandes batailles perdues, ni l'envahissement de la <placeName key="Kingdom of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q70972">France</placeName> par l'Anglais, n'abattirent sa passion de fêtes et de toilette.</p> <p>Sa fille <persName ana="française" key="Isabella of Valois" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q229901" role="reine">Isabelle</persName>, mariée à <persName ana="britannique" key="Richard II of England" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q81000" role="roi">Richard II d'Angleterre</persName>, voyait le trône de son mari crouler sous des intrigues*<note type="annotation">Intrigue. Manière secrète d'agir , qu'on emploie pour faire réussir ou manquer une affaire.</note> de famille et sous les révoltes populaires ; <persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau</persName> avait sous les yeux les grandes misères de <placeName key="Kingdom of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q70972">France</placeName>. Et pendant ce temps quel était son grand souci ? D'envoyer à sa fille des poupées — des poupées habillées à la dernière mode parisienne, pour la tenir au courant de l'élégance du jour. Une poupée suivait l'autre ; et ces deux dames étaient ravies ; rien ne les troublait.</p> <p>Le livre parlait aussi des corsets de cette époque. A <pb type="page" n="330" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_330.jpg"/> <fw>330 SUZETTE.</fw> cette <persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau</persName> est attribuée l'introduction en <placeName key="Kingdom of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q70972">France</placeName>, et même l'invention de ce corset si funeste aux jeunes filles. Les demoiselles, en effet, s'imaginant que la beauté de la taille consiste uniquement dans sa finesse, se serrent jusqu'à déformer leurs côtes, entravent ainsi le jeu des poumons et du cœur, et compromettent gravement leur santé.</p> <p>— Eh ! dit la <persName key="mme_richard" type="fictif">tante Richard</persName>, après avoir continué de feuilleter un instant en silencè l'album où elle venait de <figure> <caption>Coiffure, dite le Hennin, portée par les femmes du XIVe au XVe siècle.</caption> </figure> <figure> <caption>Coiffure de l'époque de la Restauration (1815-1830).</caption> </figure> lire ces renseignements, c'est aussi cette même Allemande qui nous apporta, comme en ennemie, un autre engin de torture : l'usage d'emmailloter les enfants dans des bandelettes serrées, ficelées à les garrotter*<note type="annotation">Garrotter. Attacher avec des forts liens.</note>.</p> <p>On imite les grandes dames. Et cette mode barbare dura cinq siècles. Pendant cinq cents ans, les pauvres bébés, au lieu de gigoter joyeusement, moururent ou piaillèrent. C'était leur seul moyen de protestation. Mais on les laissait mourir ou piailler ; les vieilles mamans encourageaient les jeunes par la pensée que ce supplice faisait aux petits patients leur beauté, leurs « droitures », comme on dit encore dans certaines campagnes emmailloteuses.</p> </div> <pb type="page" n="331" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_331.jpg"/> <fw>LA REINE ISABEAU. 331</fw> <div type="questionnaire"> <head>Questionnaire.</head> <list> <item>— Donnez une idée des coiffures du quatorzième et du quinzième siècle.</item> <item>— Quelle coiffure admira-t-on encore ? </item> <item>— Que direz-vous de la coquetterie de la reine <persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau de Bavière</persName> ? </item> <item>— Quel était son souci ainsi que celui de sa fille mariée en <placeName key="England" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q21">Angleterre</placeName> ? </item> <item>— A qui attribue-t-on l'invention des corsets ? </item> <item>— En quoi l'usage des corsets est-il nuisible à la santé ? </item> <item>— Quel autre usagé également dangereux est attribué encore à la reine <persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau</persName> ? </item> <item>— Quel inconvénient grave présente l'emmaillotement des enfants ? </item> </list> </div> <div type="exercices"> <head>DÉVELOPPEMENT DES SUJETS PROPOSÉS POUR EXERCICES.</head> <div type="morale"> <head>Morale.</head> <div type="questions"> <list> <item>— Quelles sont les préoccupations d'une jeune fille coquette ? </item> <item>— Que néglige-t-elle pour satisfaire ce travers ? </item> <item>— Que compromet-elle souvent ? </item> <item>— Quelles sont, en général, les personnes les plus ridicules, et pourquoi ? </item> <item>— Faut-il confondre la propreté avec la coquetterie ? Détails à ce sujet.</item> </list> </div> <div type="réponses"> <p>Une coquette ne songe guère à se rendre utile, ni à être bonne, aimable, serviable pour ses compagnes, ni à faire l'éducation de son caractère et de sa conscience ; elle n'a d'autre pensée que de se parer afin d'éclipser les jeunes filles de son âge et d'attirer les regards sur sa personne. Elle subordonne tout à ce misérable objet : sa santé qu'elle compromet, ses relations qu'elle rend difficiles par ses prétentions, le bonheur qu'elle devrait goûter dans sa famille où elle se rend importune et fatigante par des demandes incessantes d'argent. Peu à peu on se détache d'elle, et celles qu'elle prétendait effacer ne lui ménagent ni les critiques ni les propos malveillants. Une coquette empoisonne sa vie.</p> <p>Il est à remarquer que, dans une réunion, les personnes que l'opinion générale trouve ridicules, sont précisément les coquettes ; dans leur désir exagéré de se distinguer, elles vont toujours au delà de cette simplicité gracieuse qui est le cachet de la vraie distinction ; elles prêtent alors le flanc à des observations dont elles seraient peu flattées si l'écho on parvenait jusqu'à leurs oreilles.</p> <p>La propreté n'a aucun rapport avec la coquetterie, serait-elle excessive. Que les jeunes filles soient donc toujours extrêmmement soigneuses à cet égard, à la condition toutefois qu'elles ne trouveront pas dans une telle recherche le motif de dédaigner les travaux du ménage. Il est à remarquer, à l'appui de ce que nous venons de dire, que les coquettes sont rarement bien propres.</p> </div> </div> <div type="histoire"> <head>Histoire.</head> <div type="questions"> <list> <item>— Dans quelle circonstance <persName key="Charles VI of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q160349" ana="française" role="roi">Charles VI</persName> perdit-il la raison ? </item> <item>— Que pensez-vous d'<persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau de Bavière</persName> ? Justifiez votre opinion.</item> <item>— Que pensez-vous de sa fille ? </item> <item>— Quelle fut la conduite d'<persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau</persName> envers <persName ana="française" key="Charles VI of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q160349" role="roi">Charles VI</persName>, devenu fou ? </item> </list> </div> <div type="réponses"> <p><persName ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q3387524" key="Pierre de Craon" ana="française" role="aristocrate">Pierre de Craon</persName>, chassé de la cour de <placeName key="Kingdom of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q70972">France</placeName> par le <persName ana="française" key="Olivier de Clisson" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q727658" role="homme de guerre">connétable de Clisson</persName>, tenta de l'assassiner avec une troupe de brigands (14 juin 1392) Il vint se réfugier ensuite auprès du <persName ana="française" key="John V" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q454013" role="aristocrate">duc de Bretagne</persName>, qui refusa de le livrer au roi. Bien que malade, <persName ana="française" key="Charles VI of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q160349" role="roi">Charles VI </persName>se mit en marche avec une armée au plus fort de l'été de cette même année. Le 5 août 1392, comme il traversait la , un homme sortit des broussailles et, saisissant la bride du cheval du roi, s'écria : « Arrête, noble roi ; tu es trahi !» — Cette apparition troubla le faible monarque, qui, devenu subitement fou, se jeta sur les gens de sa suite. Il resta dans cet état jusqu'à son dernier jour.</p> <p><persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau de Bavière</persName>, comme sa fille <persName key="Isabella of Valois" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q229901" ana="française" role="reine">Isabelle</persName>, épouse de <persName ana="britannique" key="Richard II of England" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q81000" role="roi">Richard II</persName>, roi d'<placeName key="England" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q21">Angleterre</placeName>, étaient deux coquettes, c'est-à-dire deux femmes sans cœur. Ni les malheurs ni les périls des royaumes où elles régnaient ne purent les amener à des pensées sérieuses ; après avoir été l'instrument docile des partis, elles moururent toutes deux l'objet du mépris public. </p> <pb type="page" n="332" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_332.jpg"/> <fw>332 SUZETTE.</fw> <p>Lorsque <persName ana="française" key="Charles VI, re di Francia, 1368-1422" ref="http://viaf.org/viaf/444159474048327660914/" role="roi">Charles VI</persName> fut devenu fou, <persName ana="française" key="Isabeau of Bavaria" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q154064" role="reine">Isabeau</persName> s'allia avec les pires ennemis de son fils et de la <placeName key="Kingdom of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q70972">France</placeName> ; elle abandonnait le malheureux roi dans la détresse et le besoin, et pendant ce temps vivait au milieu des plaisirs. En 1421, on la vit signer le honteux <eventName>traité de <placeName key="Troyes" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q5489">Troyes</placeName></eventName>, par lequel elle donnait sa fille <persName ana="française" key="Catherine of Valois" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q229192" role="reine">Cathérine</persName> comme épouse au roi <persName ana="britannique" key="Henry V of England" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q131581" role="roi">Henri V d'Angleterre</persName>, avec la succession de la couronne de <placeName key="Kingdom of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q70972">France</placeName>, aù préjudice du dauphin <persName ana="française" key="Charles VII of France" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q133372" role="roi">Charles</persName>.</p> </div> </div> <div type="hygiène"> <head>Hygiène.</head> <div type="questions"> <list> <item>— Qu'est-ce qui nécessite l'emploi du corset pour les enfants de faible constitution ? </item> <item>— Que faut-il éviter plus tard dans l'usage habituel du corset ? </item> <item>— Quelles sont les conséquences fâcheuses de l'abus de se serrer la taille ? </item> <item>— Quels organes intérieurs sont comprimés et ne peuvent fonctionner qu'avec difficulté ? </item> </list> </div> <div type="réponses"> <p>Quelquefois l'usage du corset est nécessaire pour les enfants que leur faible constitution prédispose à une déviation de la colonne vertébrale.</p> <p>On doit conseiller aux jeunes filles d'éviter de se serrer la taille, même modérément, car cette fâcheuse habitude a les plus dangereuses conséquences ; la santé s'en trouve compromise à jamais quand une mort prématurée ne survient point. S'il y a tant de jeunes filles anémiques, atteintes d'affections du foie, de maladies d'estomac ou d'entrailles, il n'en faut pas chercher la cause ailleurs que dans le funeste usage du corset. N'en est-il pas de ces petites coquettes, dont la sottise égale la prétention, qui, à l'insu de leurs parents, conservent leur corset très serré jour et nuit, et qui complètent ce régime homicide on buvant du vinaigre sous le prétexte de maigrir ? Elles se préparent une vie de tortures tout au moins, et leur-teint jaune, leur poitrine rentrée, leurs épaules saillantes ne semblent à personne une compensation pour de tels maux.</p> <p>Il n'en saurait être autrement, puisque les organes les plus nécessaires à la respiration, à la circulation du sang et à la digestion sont comprimés au point de ne plus être en mesure de fonctionner sans une extrême difficulté.</p> </div> </div> <div type="industrie"> <head>Industrie.</head> <div type="questions"> <list> <item>— LES POUPÉES. </item> <item>— Qu'est-ce qu'une poupée ? </item> <item>— Donner une idée des variétés de poupées. </item> <item>— Quel avantage présente ce jouet ? </item> <item>— Que peuvent apprendre les jeunes filles en jouant à la poupée ? </item> </list> </div> <div> <p>Une <term>poupée</term> est une figure d'enfant faite en carton, en bois, en peau ou en caoutchouc qui sert de jouet aux petites filles. Il y en a de toutes les grandeurs, de toutes les couleurs : les unes sont de grossières ébauches, les autres de charmantes imitations des bébés ; il y en a de nues qu'on doit habiller ; d'autres sont vêtues d’une blouse ou de vêtements simples ; quelques-unes enfin, somptueusement habillées ; mais je ne sais si ces dernières sont celles avec qui l'on joue de meilleur cœur.</p> <p>Le jeu de la poupée a l'avantage de familiariser les petites filles avec les soins qu'exigent les enfants, et elles peuvent apprendre à tailler des vêtements, à les confectionner si elles se chargent de l'habillement de leurs poupées.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </body> </text> </TEI> Document Download Object Type XML document
